This "DAC” was the better of two possible "DACs”—it rhymes with "flak”—and is a wonderful value for a sleek, clear and lentilly-peppery GrüVe; some phenolic nip, lilacy and apple-y, the graceful finish is the most delicate part of the wine, full of finesse.

Producer

Auersthal is just barely beyond Vienna’s northern suburbs, in a dead-still little wine village in the Weinviertel.  Hofer belongs to a group called Bio-Ernte which has standards above the EU guidelines.  The vineyards lie in a rain-shadow and have to endure hot summers. In fact Hofer plants his Riesling in a fog-pocket as he gets so little rain. The wines are pressed conventionally (no whole-cluster) with skin contact, and all whites are done in stainless steel.